Ceramic Bangladesh Magazine

4TH ISSUE

4TH ISSUE

Pottery: Whether To Wither Away Or Survive? – Artisans out to retain this ancient craftwork

Which cultures do the rural Bangladesh represent since the time immemorial? Broadly, the answer might be traditional arts and crafts but what comes first is pottery, the decorative face of Bangladesh. It has a magic that master artisans have been weaving with their wand-like hands. The earthenware or clay-made wares were the essential household articles for centuries. The use of pottery was common in the celebration of various fiestas and festivals. However, is pottery a thing of the past and this fine art going into atrophy, really. Let’s look at an eye-soothing picture at Nolam Palpara, some 38 kilometres off the capital Dhaka. A handful of artisans, men and women, are absorbed in putting strenuous efforts to make pots, pitchers, jugs, glasses, bowls, buckets, small banks, pot covers, dishes, flower vases and dolls. They are out to keep their ancestral profession alive. As time passes, many in their neighbourhood have left this ancient art, yet some are still retaining pottery with profound passion. The potential of pottery is immense and this craftwork is contributing a lot to the country’s nascent ceramic sector. A potter in his late 30s, Palash Pal, told this author during a recent visit to this pottery village, said this very Nolam Palpara, in Savar upazila under Dhaka district, was once famous for the traditional artistic pottery as almost all residents were engaged in the pottery industry. Palpara people have transformed their lifestyle over the years. From the kitchenware to attire, a dramatic shift is seen as they are trying to cope with the changing trends and cultures. But a visit to some makeshift outlets near Doel Chattar adjacent to the Bangla Academy and Dhaka University campus, which stretches all the way to the High Court gate, tells us a different tale. Most of the traders expressed their utter satisfaction with pottery sales after years of stymied growth in the business. According to sector insiders, pottery business is evolving faster these days as enthusiasts from all walks of life prefer a glittery album of aesthetic pottery and terracotta showpieces. From utensils to showpieces, once upon a time their ancestors crafted and used traditional pottery items in their everyday household work. For ages, villagers used earthenware as household tools. With the passage of time, this long-held tradition has shifted drastically. Some craftspeople are exerting their efforts to boom and boost their long-standing business and tradition into a different path. Citing that his ancestors were involved with this occupation for hundreds of years, Mr Pal said in 2005, when he started this trade by acquiring hands-on training from a local artisan, a total of 40 families were engaged in making earthenware. The number has tragically come down to only eight now. Their profession remains on the line for shortage of soil, wood and funds. The oldest art of the country is clay-made crafting, that is pottery. The main raw material of pottery is soil. However, this cannot be crafted with any soil. Clean sticky soil is the key component for this clay art. Business only grows substantially during festivals. Potters struggle to survive with their craft in the rest of the year, said Mr Pal. Those who can prepare items with aesthetic value are doing better business as the demand for such items has dropped. Nobody in his village is making any aesthetic articles due to fund shortages and patronage. A good number of people throng Dhaka’s different sales points, including Doel Chattar, to buy various types of pots and pans, flower tubs, vases, showpieces, lamps, umbrella stands, portraits, toys and wall tiles, Mr Pal acknowledged.   Prominent potters from Patuakhali, Dhaka, Narsingdi, Manikganj and some northern districts supply such products across the country, including the metropolis Dhaka. The 69-year-old bearded Abul Kashem Sikder, who has set up a makeshift outlet at Doel Chattar, said this place has become the biggest pottery market. He bought most of the artistic pottery products which are crafted in different parts of the country including Barishal, Cumilla, Faridpur and Dhaka’s surrounding Dhamrai, Savar and Nabinagar areas. Mr Sikder sells more than 150 items which are molded and sculpted by the local Pal community. He does not sell any traditional pottery as they are almost on the verge of extinction, he mentioned.   Some foreign tourists often visit his shop and they also cannot resist the temptation of buying articles from a dazzling collection of items. Mr Sikder sells Tk 3,000-5,000 daily and his annual turnover is estimated at Tk 2.0-2.5 million. Dhaka has been the nerve centre of Bangladeshi pottery since time immemorial. The pottery industry has been settled for hundreds of years along the banks of the Banshi, including Kaggiyapara, Palpara of Dhamrai, Nabinagar of Savar, Nalam and Bhagalpur. But this art still survives with bars and barriers. For survival, many people have left their ancient calling. Even if some are trying to hold on, they too are plagued by so many pains, according to the industry people. In 1975, more or less 65 potters in the village were involved in this craftsmanship, but the number has come down to only eight now, indicating the state of the aesthetic art, he said. To mould earthenware, potters have to acquire clay through a strenuous process. They have to collect clay mainly during dry season. Initially, clay was passed through various stages of molding media like wood, stone, shell and metal before reaching the age of ceramic and porcelaina. The sexagenarian Madhob Pal, an artist and sculptor, who has three sons employed at different private organisations, was born and brought up at the same village and started crafting various sorts of pottery items 32 years back in 1990. About soil collection, Mr Madhob said potters have to acquire soil by making 8-10-foot deep holes underground by hand. Due to soil, energy and financial crises, the craft lovers will not be able to find the craft available for long, he warned. Their lifestyle has changed over time with aluminium and plastic products replacing earthenware

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4TH ISSUE

Kuakata: Sea Waves In The South

Something about the white noise of waves, the deep whirl of wind, and the melting, golden hues during the strike of twilight draws people to the affection of the sea. And among a variety of sea beaches that Bangladesh is blessed with, the unique and mesmeric Kuakata wins the hearts of all passionate travelers. Kuakata Sea Beach, the second largest one in the country, is well-known for its picturesque scenery, serene blue skies, and tidal waves. Not many people know that Kuakata has a unique trait that makes it one of a kind; it’s the only sea beach in South Asia that offers travelers a full view of sunrise and sunset. People gather here to relish the therapeutic hours of the sun rising and later disappearing at dusk, reflecting golden highlights in the water of the Bay of Bengal. Origin of the name The name “Kuakata” is derived from the words “Kua,” which means “a well in earth for drinking water,” and “Kata,” which means “the digging of earth.” It’s taken from the legendary well dug on the seashore by early Rakhine settlers in their quest for drinking water after being expelled from Myanmar by the Mughals in 1784. Now home to Hindu and Buddhist communities, the neighbouring “Rakhine Palli” is comprised of a small ethnic group. Spending a few hours exploring there, one can learn about different aspects of the diverse lifestyle of the Rakhine villages; observe the handloom skills of the villagers; and come across handicraft shops at the well-known Rakhine Market. The Buddhist temple and the legendary well are located to its south. It is known that the beauty of the temple was influenced by Chinese architecture. The temple has a statue of Buddha about 30 feet high, claimed to be the highest in Bangladesh. Opening of Padma Bridge & New Opportunities Located 320 kilometres away from Dhaka, the beach is situated in the Lotachapli Union, Kalapara Upazila, Patuakhali administrative district under Barishal division. Earlier, it would take 9-10 hours to travel to all southern destinations by road or river. The bridge over mighty Padma has whittled down the distance between Dhaka and Kuakata to nearly 300 kilometres. The trip takes about six hours, which is almost half the time it used to take earlier. During the time of Eid-ul-Azha in mid-July, every hotel and motel was fully booked and was overcrowded with tourists who traveled long distances to see the magnificent sunrise and sunset at Kuakata. However, the Sundarbans and Kuakata-oriented tourism had faced a decline in the past few years. When asked about this, local businessmen and hotel owners said business has been booming nowadays. They are optimistic about reversing the trend since the global pandemic. They said since Kuakata has become more accessible, thanks to easier conveyance and infrastructural development, the number of tourists would increase in the coming days. Places to Travel Around There are a few nearby tourist attractions with diverse biodiversity. A series of coconut trees and an evergreen thicket of ‘Jhau Bon (forest)’ add to the beauty of the beach. The woodland is within walking distance from the seashore and is an excellent spot for watching the sunrise. There is an eco-park, a fascinating place for a picnic or perfect retreat. The Gangamati Reserved Forest is located to the east of the Jhau Forest. To the east of Kuakata beach, beyond the Gangamati forest, there is a crab island full of red crabs. It is said that the red crabs flock to the beach to look for solitude. Local kids around the beach get thrilled to catch the red crabs and bring them over to the tourists. During the travel season from October to March, speed boats are offered from Kuakata beach to Crab Island. Festivities add more vibrancy to a place. Thousands of devotees gather here during the festivals of “Rush Purnima” and “Maghi Purnima.” On these occasions, they perform holy baths and enact traditional fairs. These festive events make the Kuakata beach more appealing to visitors, adding life to the serene views of the lush forest and colourful sailing boats in the Bay of Bengal. Another beautiful forest, known as Fatra Forest, is found at the extreme east of the Sundarbans forest range as soon as the river is crossed, on the west side of Kuakata beach by an engine boat. Even though this forest contains a majority of the Sundarbans, no wild animals are present. In this forest, one can witness numerous birds, monkeys, and wild hens. In the winter, migratory birds are found around the spot, which is another spectacular feature of Kuakata. There are arrangements to visit these protected forests, including Fatra, Laldia, Harinbaria, and Sonakata Ecopark, which are adjacent to the Sundarbans by boat. Many deer are spotted around the forests, and they are seen as comfortable around tourists. With three to four hours in hand, one can tour these amazing places. An interesting place here is Shutki Palli, or “Dry Fish Village,” located at the western end of Kuakata beach. From November to March, the dry season lasts. The fish gets salt-cured and sun-dried on the beach after being caught in the sea. You can spend time watching the busy schedule and lifestyle of these fishermen and get to buy a variety of dried fish at reasonable prices. Where to Stay For accommodation, many hotels are available nearby, from which one can choose according to comfort, convenience, and cost. Some notable ones are Kuakata Grand Hotel, Hotel Graver Inn, Kuakata Inn, Hotel Nilanjona, Hotel Sea View, Hotel Sea Queen, Parjatan Motel Youth Inn, Beach Haven, and Sikder Resort and Villa. In the case of food, the hotels prepare the meals for the guests in their restaurants. Besides, a variety of local cuisine is also available in local restaurants around. The Best Time to be here The best time to visit Kuakata is when you can fully immerse yourself in the experience without having to worry about the inconveniences. The best month is

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