HERITAGE
Remains of ARMENIA
As you walk through that particular street of Armanitola where the Armenian Church has been perching for almost two and a half centuries, its white coloured skin subtly piercing you with an invitation to enter inside, a peculiar sillage coming to life from the hundreds of variants of notes from the line of perfume shops beside, mixed with the eerie scents carried by the winds flowing over the Buriganga which is just within a minute of walking distance, will hit your nostrils. Soon, you will start noticing all the examples of unplanned and unappetising architectures of different heights and looks that popped up in the recent decades and still keeps popping up every now and then with no signs of stopping, trying its best to engulf the church with the shadows of its murky glory. The current state of many of the historical structures that had been living in Old Dhaka for centuries, is just like the present attire of Old Dhaka that we gradually forced her to wear – a living testament of what we were, what we could have been and what we are now.
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Mahasthangarh the Cultural Capital of SAARC
At times when we get tired of the city’s dust, chaotic traffic, and hectic jobs; we might want to step outside its orbit and get some fresh air with a touch of greeneries and nature or want to get closer to history and tradition. Bangladesh, despite being densely populated country with compact horizon, still stands proud on the global map with its rich heritage and significant tourist attractions. Mahasthangarh, the earliest urban archaeological sites and the oldest-known city, is one such must-visit tourist spot for both the historians and the travelholic people. Before the birth of Jesus Christ, i.e. about 2500 years BC, the civilized town was established here. Archaeological evidence has been found. It is located in Shibganj upazila of Bogura district, lying on the western bank of Korotoa river, about 13 kilometres north of Bogura city on the Dhaka-Dinajpur highway. Once Mahasthangarh was the capital of Bengal. It was declared the Cultural Capital of SAARC in 2016. An interesting fact about Mahasthangarh is that it is also a flood-free physiographic unit because of the elevation of 15-25 meters above the surrounding lowlands, which makes it an even exquisite historical tourist spot. It is believed to be the main reason for urban development here as it is one of the highest regions in Bangladesh. The land here is 36 meters (118 ft) above the sea level, while Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, is only 6 meters (20 ft) above sea level. Another reason for choosing this place is the location and shape of Korotoa river. The river in the 13th century was three times wider than the present Ganga. Mahasthangarh is located in the red soil of Varendra region which is slightly higher than the alluvial region. Areas above 15-20 meters are considered flood-free geological zones. Mahasthangarh the most significant Buddhist archaeological site, was a thriving administrative, religious, and cultural centre from the Mutual Empire era to the Sen Dynasty era. Initially, the location was known as Paundravardhanapura or Pundranagara, both of which are references to the Pundra Kingdom from Indian epic literature, which was claimed to rule over a region of India, now known as Bihar. A broken limestone slab from the 3rd century BC that bears six lines in ‘Brahmi’ script has been found there with the name ‘Pundranagar’ inscribed on it. The walled city has archaeological monuments from different periods. For several centuries this place was the provincial capital of Maurya, Gupta, Paal, Sen rulers and later the capital of Hindu feudal kings. Numerous Hindu kings and kings of other religions ruled from the third century BC to the fifteenth century AD. Hazrat Shah Sultan Mahmud Balkhi (RA) and his disciples came to spread Islam in this area. There is an amazing legend about the preacher Shah Sultan Balkhi. It is said that he crossed the Korotoa river on the back of a huge fish-shaped boat while entering Mahasthangarh i.e.ancient Pundranagar. The famous Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang visited Pundranagar between 639 and 645 AD. In his travelogue he describes the nature and lifestyle of the time. Being famous for Buddhist education, monks from China and Tibet used to come to Mahasthangarh to study. Then they went out to different countries in South and East Asia. There they spread the teachings of Buddhism. The topography of the place offers a fascinating cubicle-like view. The entire area is surrounded by a fortification wall. The rampart of the city, built with burnt bricks, belongs to six building periods, among which the earliest belonged to the Maurya period. Various mounds and monasteries (bihar) are scattered throughout the vast area outside the fortification wall including Bairagir Bhita, Govinda Bhita, Khodar Pathar (stone of Allah) mound, Mankalir Kunda mound, Jiyut Kunda (Well of Life), Godaibari Dhap, Noropotir Dhap, Gokul Medh (Lokhindorer Bashor Ghar), and Bhasu Bihar. One of the highlights of Mahasthangarh is Govinda Bhita, where remnants of two Buddhist temples can be visited. Opposite Govinda Bhita, near the north side of the citadel, one can find the Mahasthan Archaeological Museum. The museum, though small, has a well-maintained collection of pieces recovered from the site including the statues of Hindu and Buddhist gods and goddesses, terracotta plaques, fragments of ceramics, well-preserved bronze images found in nearby monastery ruins that date back to the pre-Paal period. Gokul Medh Buddhist monastery, located about two kilometers south-west of Mahasthangarh, belongs to the most impressive archaeological sites in this area. Behula Lakhindorer Basor Ghor Behula is the protagonist in the Manasa Mangal genre of Bengali medieval epics. A number of works belonging to this genre were written between the thirteenth and eighteenth centuries. Though the religious purpose of these works is to eulogise the Hindu goddess Manasa, these works are more well known for depicting the love story of Behula and her husband Lakhindar.
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UNESCO World Heritage Site SHAT GAMBUJ MOSQUE Architectural Evidence of History
Bangladesh, the land of beauty, is glorified with various heritage sites which prove rich culture and heritage and blend of beautification in every sphere of the architectural works. The administrative district of Bagerhat under Khulna division of southern Bangladesh is famous for its archaeological richness. The historic mosque city of Bagerhat, the Shat Gambuj Mosque (Sixty Dome Mosque) is the most magnificent and the largest enclosed type mosque built by Khan Jahan Ali in Bengal. It is the largest historical mosque in Bangladesh from the sultanate period (1352–1576). It has been described as one of the most impressive Muslim monuments in the whole of South Asia. It is famous for its sheer size and stunning architecture among many heritage sites. The Shat Gambuj Mosque is located five kilometers from the main town of Bagerhat. It is situated by the eastern bank of the Ghoradighi which has increased the beauty of the Mosque remarkably. The amazing construction work of the mosque started in 1442. It ended in 1459 and is a proven example of glorious history and beauty declared by UNESCO as a world heritage site in 1985. In the mosque, Muslims offer prayers (Namaz) five times a day and Eid prayers also take place here. Every Friday at noon, more than 5,000 people pray Jumma prayers here and visit the Shat Gambuj Mosque and explore the beauty of historical evidence since long-gone centuries. The building of Shat Gambuj Mosque began in the middle of 15th century with establishment of a Muslim colony near the mangrove forest, the Sundarban, another UNESCO heritage site in Bangladesh. The colony was founded by a revered general named Khan Al-Azam Ulugh Khan Jahan. He was also a great and famous Muslim saint and the local ruler of Khalifabad (present Bagerhat). Khan Al-Azam Ulugh Khan Jahan conquered the greater part of southern Bengal and the prosperous area was named Khalifabad in honour of the reigning Sultan Nasiruddin Mahmud Shah (1435-59). Khan Jahan ruled the region with the seat of administration at Haveli-Khalifatabad, identified with present Bagerhat, till his death in 1459. He had built many structures for the well-being of the people in that locality. He made water tanks, mosques, madrashas etc. Shat Gambuj Mosque is his greatest creation. Khan Jahan Ali was widely known as the great architect of historical mosques around the South Asian Subcontinent, who embellished the entire Bagerhat region with more than a dozen mosques under the patronage of the Sultan. The ruins of which are focused around the most imposing and largest multi-domed mosques in Bangladesh. The legacy of Khan Jahan Ali is vividly evident in his architectural works. He preached in this affluent region during the reign of Sultan Nasiruddin Mahmud Shah. Shat Gambuj Mosque is a wonderful proven archeological beauty that is the signature of the 15th century. The planning of the mosque is a living example of the Islamic architecture and the decorations remind us of the blend of Mughal and Turkish architecture. The Mosque is also known as the Sultanate Mosque, which was used for ruling the area and a court at that time. The mosque was not used only for prayers, but also as a madrasha and a parliament assembly hall. Though the Shat Gambuj Mosque refers to a mosque with 60 domes or Roof Gambuj. However, it actually has 77 squat (low) domes, arranged in seven rows of eleven, and two-storied four high domes or tower on four corners, bringing the total to 81 domes. Two of these four high domes or towers were used for Azan or the call for prayers. On the east side of the mosque, there are 11 arched doorways, while the north and south each have seven doors. These arched doorways also providing ventilation and light in the hall. The interior is divided into seven longitudinal aisles and 11 deep bays by 60 slender stone columns, which culminate in numerous arches that support the roof. The vast prayer hall of the Mosque has walls of unusually thick, tapered brick in the Tughlaq architecture style of Delhi and a hut-shaped roofline that anticipates later styles. The inside space of the mosque is 48m x 33m (160 feet x 108 feet = 17,280 sq feet), and the wall of the mosque is almost six feet (1.8m) thick. To enhance the mosque’s attractiveness and give it an exceptional appearance, the entire structure is constructed of red burned mud or bricks. The Turkey style of architecture was followed using tempered brick in the mosque. The detailing of the mosque is prepared with terracotta decoration. So anyone can notice the exquisite detailing around the doors with beautiful design. Inside the mosque, the walls are crafted based on the former Muslim cultural tradition. The atmosphere inside the mosque is cool and comforting for the unusual thickness of the wall. Inside the mosque, among the ten “Mihrabs” the central one was built of stone and a special doorway had been built in “Qibla”. The central mihrab, which corresponds to the central nave, is bigger than its flanking counterparts and shows a rectangular projection on the outer side, carried up to roof level. These mihrabs are also decorated with stonework (grey sandstone) and terracotta and the floor of the mosque is made of brick. Its ornamentation is in the Muslim style of carving in shallow and low relief. The mosque yard is surrounded by an old, ornamented boundary wall. The enclosed compound was originally entered through two gateways – one in the east, now restored and repaired, and the other in the north, no longer extant. The eastern gateway, facing cardinally the central archway of the mosque proper, appears to be a monument by itself. It measures 7.92m by 2.44m and consists of an archway having a span of about 2.44m with a beautiful curvature on top. Now there is a picnic spot beside the mosque area around the historical Ghora Dighi. There is a museum in the mosque area which is situated to keep the historical
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In the Vicinity of Khan Jahan Ali’s Alligators
What does birth inside your psyche when you hear the word mazaar? For many, it might be that gush of inexplicable zany feeling that stems from your experiences related to a mazaar, which is, in other words, a shrine. Common symbolisation of the religious or spiritual sites in the sub-continent especially in Bangladesh, mazaars is indeed an eccentric space. Spaces, which are onerous to describe with words unless you have actually- not only experienced it, but internalised its truest weirdly ethereal essence, putting aside all your biases, particularly religious ones. And each one has its own set of personalities.
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